Learning from Lamu

by Mark Chew
The Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) for Australia clearly states that if you are planning to go to the Northern Coast of Kenya you should “reconsider your need to travel”. It goes on to say “The borders with Somalia, Ethiopia and South Sudan are high-risk areas for kidnapping. Armed groups from Somalia kidnap and target foreigners in Kenya, including aid workers, particularly along the Somalia border region. Foreigners have previously been the target of kidnappings. If, despite our advice, you plan to travel to these areas, get professional security advice.”

I considered the advice… and then ignored it. I had been given a precious invitation to sail in the spectacular regatta for the local dhows in Lamu and it was an opportunity too good to miss.

After forty years of mildly competitive sailing, on three different continents, I would list my few days of racing on the Swahili coast as an all-time highlight. Much of the event would be familiar to people who sail in “rich world” regattas. Considerations such as weather, sail choice, tidal movements, and crew roles are almost identical but then the sailing is infused with pure joy, where physical prowess, respect for tradition and experience, and the love of the practical act of moving a wooden boat through the water, transcends the importance of the final results. Don’t misunderstand me. They push their boats hard. – Full report